Harking back to the glory days of Christian Dior Haute Couture...
John Galliano's A/W09 collection was surprisingly nostalgic in a flurry of petticoats, structured bustiers and hats to rival Audrey Hepburn’s Eliza Doolittle at the races.
The setting boasted post-war nostalgia; a picturesque backdrop complete with fresh flowers, chandeliers and ionic columns presented a pastiche of the 1940s salon where the wealthy society ladies of Europe to America, would pile in to see the House of Dior’s latest creations.
Models strutted down the runway as modern femme fatales with a large splash of 40s tailoring. Ultra feminine boudoir creations including: plunging bustiers, slips, petticoats, negligees, two-piece suits and waist-synching exaggerating bustles are all constructed to create the ultimate hourglass.
Sumptuous silhouettes are contradicted by ladylike manners and post-war etiquette on the runway – a very Parisian affair indeed.
Royal College of Art MA graduate Katie Eary is a brilliant British menswear designer on a mission to reinterpret couture for the modern day dandy. For Autumn/ Winter09, Eary draws inspiration from literary sources resulting in a decadent and cohesive collection of glamourous-flamboyant military dress. George Orwell's Animal Farm and russian novel The Master and Margarita by Mikhail Bulgakov (an all time favourite of mine) highlights the decadence of corrupt revolutionary figureheads, captured in Eary's tailored sequin trousers and feathered headdresses. The collection shown during MAN, London Fashion Week earlier this year was well received by the fashion press and most importantly, fashion buyers.
The A/W09 collection alludes to the point in Animal Farm when the greedy pigs take control of the farmhouse - becoming like their decadent human oppressors but far more villainous - having their cake baked, served on a silver platter and eaten in one gluttonous mouthful!
The grandiose military collection is a sophisticated macabre of sequins, feathers, furs, gold chains, pompous shoulder detailing and flamboyant headgear. Black dress coats and heavy black tunics are paired with gold studded denim and union jack motif trousers in silver tones or traditional Britannia colours - some looks topped off with a traditional bearskin hat.
The pièce de résistance are the trotters that will soon be available to purchase along with select pieces from Digitaria, Berwick Street. Eary has customised the 1460 black Dr. Marten classic boot with gold toe caps fashioned to mimic a well-bred piggy trotter.
Bring on the fop!
